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Here's a 3d rendering of a hub I'm thinking about having machined. It would replace the 2nd gear hub. I figure that the aluminum to steel interference fit on the existing one way shaft would work ok. I'm not a materials engineer but it should work. Now I just need to see if my machinest friend has the time to wip a few out.

If you get some made im definitely interested, perhaps ask kershaw designs if they can do them (http://home.comcast.net/~milemarkers/)

If I were you I would trim off most of that shoulder . if you lose that big mass it your truck will run better. just leave a small lip to help center the gear .you
only need about 1/4 inch around the hole to support the drive flats

Changing the model is easy. I'll play around with a few versions before I try to machine them.

I'm in for a couple

My ELST would so love having a 2nd gear hub that it doesn't tear up in three to four races.

Put me down for one at least!

Looks like enough guys are intereseted to make it worthwhile to make this hub. I'll keep you posted.

I'm not very smart....but I would think that it would work on a nitro engine...as I see no reason why not....correct?

I'd be down for a couple myself if so......I'm 100% nitro as electrics scare me(newb)

It should work fine on a nitro. The main reason all the electrics want it is that electric has A LOT more torque initially than nitro so no need for first.

Basically as long as your motor has the torque to start off in second then your sweet.

Hello everybody. Just wanted to let you guys know this is my first post on here. I have an LST rolling chassis converted to an LST2. I bought the FD brushless conversion kit with the exception of the esc (I'm gonna be running a Quark 125B). I too was looking into making it a one speed and am very interested in getting a couple of these hubs. I was also wondering if there is any place you guys recommend for hard anodizing some parts I have. I bought the Integy aluminum axle carriers and steering blocks. I heard their aluminum was soft and want to give them some strength. Wouldn't mind hard anodizing the motor mounts and battery tray also. Does anybody know what alloy Integy uses?

If your still looking for someone to make them give TheDude on these forums a PM and he might be able to make them.

I was hoping this was gonna take off!!!

So was I. Then stuff happened and I haven't had time to get some proto types made up. My machinest doesn't have the time for one off rights now. Also it turns out that Roar changed the rules and forces mt's to run with two speeds so my incentive to built these went out the window since I can't run it at the NATS. Bummer. I have not given up just got delayed.

Just got off the phone with another local machinest who interested in the project. We will be working on the prototype once I get back form the Roar Truck nats in two weeks. Geez can't believe I said "two weeks" in a net forum.

Henryk,
Thanks for taking the time on this I would like to get one made but most of the machinist in my area are high volume. If I can be of any help let me know.

The Capt

I meet with my machinest today and gave him the detailed drawings with dimensions and my spare two speed assembly. Told him that the real requirement is to bolt the 2nd gear to the oneway shaft so any reasonable way to do this is ok with me. Just keep it light and strong.

He's thinking of a couple of way's redesign the parts as well as making my hub as I designed it.

Progress!

Well,

Nice idea for the electrics for sure.

Also I thought if item was CNC Machined you could also drop rotating mass of the Hub by cutting slots around the centre where the 12 holes are you could join 3 holes then have a hole then join the next 3 then again, You would have 3 slotted holes then 3 normal holes.

You would have removed alot of un-needed material, Would a great idea to reduce rotating mass off the output sharft of the tranny.

My pennies.............

Brat......................

Good suggestions. I'll add them to the idea's list.

henryk wrote:Good suggestions. I'll add them to the idea's list.

That's Kool, I used to lathe turn alot of stuff when I was a school, I had machined alot of parts for my R/C cars many years ago.

I was looking at your design and could see alot of ideas, I hope you made sense of how I was trying to explain it, But if you look at the Ti 70T spur you will see slots in it to reduce mass.

If I had a decent photo program Iwould have edited your image and reposted it....

Brat..................

KevlarCoated wrote:If your still looking for someone to make them give TheDude on these forums a PM and he might be able to make them.

Henryk, I'd be happy to look at it for you. What software are you using to make your models?

Just got back from the Ofna Manufactures Race at Revolation, Ontario and saw your post. Thanks for the offer I replied to your message and I use Solid Works 2001 for my designs.

Ok guy's. I had to make a onespeed hub this weekend at the ofna race since my two speed gave out in the last qualifier at this weekends race.
For a poor mans trick it work fine. I ran a long 4/40 screw through the clutch shoes and bound up the 2 speed so it was alway's on. To balance the assembly I marked and drilled another set of holes for the other adjuster and ran a screw through that also. The filled down the excess on both ends and gave it a shot.

The one speed was easier to drive but my Mach 427 didn't have enough snap to clear the massive double in the middle of the track without a long run up and full wood. The layout for this track was full wood everywhere but I hate driving like that as it kills engines. For the quals I ran the two speed and my best lap time was 37.1 seconds. With lots of 40's and 41s. In the main I manage 37,38's and dipped into the 36.6 for my fastest lap. Since I was the only monster truck at the race I ran with the open (non-pro) truggies. It was fun racing with them hope they didn't mind nobody complained and several people stopped by to say they couldn't believe how that big truck could run with the truggies.

Like the others have said this was hard on the clutch but now that I've had a chance to run a 30 minute main with it I think that more punch will be needed for my truck. So my RB Team 928 will get bolted into the truck and broken in for my next race. That engine has so much power it should overcome the lack of bottom end the Mach 427 had.

I'll also try reversing the gear flip that I did to my transmission and possibly test with the muggy ring/pinion, I think its different than the lsts.
So some gearing changes may be in order.

Ok. I ran some numbers throught my gear calculator configured for the LST. Looks like to match my STR gear ratios I will need the FOC 23/22 flip and run the +1 26 tooth clutch bell and the +1 spure at 64 teeth.

This nets out to 1.11 roll out which is very close to the 1.10 for my STR.

The LST is 3 pounds heavier so I think the 25/64 combo will be what I end up with. I ran the 25/63 at the Ofna race and I needed just a bit more bottom. Next race I attend will be technical, with a short back straight so I will test both the 25/63 and 26/64 combo's. If I can get my TM928 back from RB soon I'll try that engine with 25/59 (high speed ti gears) gearing. Should still be a stump puller and have tons of top end.

Work continues on the aluminum one speed hub. Hopefully I'll be able to test out the prototype soon.

you know your one piece hub may work better if you would make the slipper drive apart of the hub . you know with the 4 little slipper tines mill on the back with the two bushing shoulders .to put the stock brass bushings inside. this would eliminate having to put some kind of spacer on the front the keep it all together.

Sorry for the delays on machining the prototype guys. We found a few issues in the fitup and some other options on the design. Heres some pics of one of the prototypes. I made a third hub today and it's looking better. Pics are of the second hub.

You have PM theDude.

UPDATE.

I finished the third prototype this morning. I'll mail it to henryk tomorrow.

Good luck.... I will buy several to help it make yalls worth while. Thanks for time and effort.

That looks pretty good. How much are you asking for this hub? Let me know ,thanks.

Duder, another nice piece of work, as always.





Now can someone explain how this will work with regards to the hub's one-way bearing? It looks like the OWB function is being removed with this mod. I would think you'd want to retain the OWB function. What am I missing?



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